Again and again the big whales launched themselves high out of the water to come crashing down. Whether it was to dislodge parasites or just for fun, for us it was a fitting goodbye from the Sea of Cortez.
We were sailing east for a two day passage to the mainland from Cabo Pulmo where we had vowed to return to when we had stopped here a few days after first landing in Mexico. By now that was just over three years ago, at the tailend of the Covid lockdowns. Maybe not quite a lifetime ago for us, but for Nico it was nearly half a lifetime.
Since departing Puerto Penasco, lying way up North at the head of the Sea of Cortez, on New Year’s eve, we had followed the coast of the Baja Peninsula, accumulating still more stories and memories of our time here, enough to fill a book, it seemed.
A highlight was our return to Santa Rosalia where we ended up spending over a month berthed in the marina alongside old and new sailor friends, as well as catching up with local families we knew from our previous visits.
We were still working 6 days a week on finishing off the must-dos on New Life. After all that time in the boat yard we had made great progress, but still had gone to sea with equipment still to install or reassemble after our patience for the boat yard had run out.
Once unplugged from the land we soon reestablished boat routines for Nico, boat work and travel. Mornings were typically occupied with one of us doing New Zealand school work with Nico and the other doing boat chores. The latter would then get us underway while the former found more fun activities to do with Nico. Sunday’s we would not move but find something to do together off the boat and just have time to enjoy each other without distractions.
And so, many idyllic anchorages and memorable shore adventures followed as we slowly made our way to warmer waters, punctuated with the occasional whale encounters. A few days at Agua Verde village saw Nico back at school. We visited fishermen in a small settlement crowded onto a rock no larger than a football field. Early the next morning we rode up a long lagoon on an offshore island. Nico went kite flying with a group of adventure tourists off a cruise ship. We found ourselves surrounded by over 200 excited dolphins jumping over each other. Then followed another port visit to La Paz coincided with the annual carnival as well as a chance to stock up and get repairs done before setting off for the tip of the Baja Peninsula.
As reward for all those endless months in the boatyards and marinas we had promised ourselves a dive in the renowned reserve, the Cabo Pulmo World Heritage Marine Park. And was it worth it! I wanted to say to Marea as we swam below the clouds of jackfish and swarms of giant gropers we encountered there.
In a couple of hours we will arrive in Mazatlan, visit the historic city, stock up and in a few days continue South to Banderas Bay. There Carlin will meet us, coming from Whangarei to crew with us to the Marquesas. A couple of weeks will see us prepared for the Pacific crossing so we can be ready for the first weather window after March 30th. And yes, we do feel ready now.
